For us it is all about simplicity. Focussing on the joy of surfing and getting people on the waves that feed their surf stoke!
Our surf reports are designed to hide some of the complexities normally associated with surf forecasts.
We use advanced forecasting models aided by artificial intelligence to get surfers on the waves that make them happy.
Our reports present the surf conditions with three simple to understand factors that influence your time in the water: wind quality, wave size and tide.
The quality of the wind is a critical component to surf forecasting. Surfer's are generally looking for 'clean' conditions.
This is where the waves's shape is smooth and breaks consistently. To get clean surf most bresks need light to moderate offshore wind conditions.
Offshore winds blow from the land to the sea and sre sometimes called a land breeze.
Onshore is the opposite with the wind blowing from the sea to the land. This will often lead to bumpy unsettled surf conditions.
Cross shore winds are winds that blow across the beach from the left or the right. These can sometimes create good surf depending on the angle and strength of the wind.
Surfers never agree on wave sizes.
There are so many variables that shape our thinking of what the size is from perceived size to the waves power to the currents, rips and paddling conditions.
There is also no agreed standard measure. There is Hawaian sizing, the 'back of the wave' method as well as the wave face sizing. It is very confusing to understand.
We use the face of the wave method which is probably how most people perceive a waves size but with our descriptions to make it more understandable.
Small - 1-2 foot
Fun - 3-4 feet
Solid - 5-6 feet
Big - 7-10 feet
Jaws - 11+
Tides have a large impact on surf conditions however, besides the general guidelines below it is very spot specific with variables such as geographic and bathymetric contours that need to be taken into account.
When the tide is at or near it's lowest point the shape of the wave is generally more hollow and barreling and often fast breaking.
On the high or full tide the waves are generally slower breaking and often will crumble down the face instead of being round and hollow.
The shape of the wave on the incoming tide will be somewhere between the hollow low tide shape and the slow crumbly high tide shape, depending on where you are in the cycle.
The incoming tide is often the best time to surf with the force of the incoming water making for good powerful conditions.
The outgoing tide is similar to the incoming tide in that the waves shape will be somewhere between the low and high tide shape.
The difference is that on an outgoing tide the waves will have less energy and power than the incoming tide.
For tides local conditions really matter.